Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Kawaja

In sub-Saharan African, there are a few terms for white people. The particular term here in South Sudan is Kawaja. So basically everywhere we Kawajas go the people, especially children, point and yell Kawaja at us. "Kawaja, Kawaja, Kawaja." It's not racist, it's just to point out the fact that you look different from them and to announce that you are walking down the street. I liken it what it must be like to be a celebrity. I hear Julia Roberts, Julia Roberts!when they yell.
Then they ask, "How are you? How are you? Where are you going?" And often, also "Give me one pound." If they're really bold they will ask for two pounds. My response is usually to up the ante and ask for more. "No. You give me five pounds. Look I work for MSF and they don't pay me well. I need fifteen pounds." This usually results in laughter.
The funny thing about these interchanges is that they're all completely culturally appropriate. They ask the same questions of each other in their own language. How are you? Where are you going? What is your name? Can I have some money? The Dinka are incredibly friendly people. They like to say hi, shake your hand, and learn your name. They also think if someone they know has money they should give them some.
One of the drivers in Juba was telling me that when he goes home, he gets asked by everyone to buy them a beer. He said it can cost 200-300 SSP (about $100 or nearly a month's pay) to visit his village.
Funny how things work.

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